Decrypting the Breitling Mechanical Chronograph Series Watch (Chronomat)

Established in 1884, Breitling has been a trailblazer in the world of fine watchmaking, particularly in the realm of modern chronographs. The brand’s commitment to innovation positions it at the forefront of chronograph development. The epicenter of Breitling’s chronograph expertise lies in Breitling Chronométrie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland—an esteemed hub of luxury watch manufacturing. This distinction places Breitling among the select few globally capable of independently conceiving and producing chronograph movements, solidifying its status as a professional watchmaking brand. Rooted in pure Swiss watchmaking principles and stringent standards spanning a century, each Breitling timepiece receives certification from the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC).

With a wealth of historical heritage, precision manufacturing expertise, and an unwavering commitment to classic design, Breitling fearlessly ventures into technological, design, and stylistic breakthroughs, ceaselessly pursuing excellence. Positioned as a trailblazer in the realms of “sea, land, and air,” the brand sets ambitious action goals across these three major areas. The Mechanical Chronograph series watch, known as the Chronomat, effortlessly transcends the boundaries of these fields. It stands as a versatile sports luxury timepiece, seamlessly blending exceptional performance with suitability for a diverse range of wearing scenarios.

The Breitling Center for Modern Precision Timepieces in La Chaux-de-Fonds-de-Fonds

Origin of legend

In 1884, Leon Breitling established the brand’s inaugural workshop in St. Imier, nestled in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland, marking the inception of Breitling’s remarkable journey from local acclaim to global prominence. From its earliest days, the brand forged an indelible connection with the realm of “flight.” The legacy continued with Gaston Breitling, the second-generation successor, who pioneered the invention of the first chronograph watch featuring an independent button at 2 o’clock in 1915. The introduction of the inaugural cockpit timer in 1931 quickly propelled Breitling to fame within the sphere of military aviation. Capitalizing on the explosive growth of the world’s civil aviation industry in the 1950s, Breitling emerged as a trailblazer, earning the prestigious designation as the appointed supplier for the World Aviation Industry and Aircraft Owners Association (AOPA). Thus, Breitling solidified its status as a true pilot’s watch.

1931 cockpit timer (early advertising)
The World Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) established the Navitimer as its official timepiece in 1952.

In the 1970s, the quartz revolution dealt a significant blow to Swiss mechanical watches, nearly causing their disappearance. However, in the 1980s, Breitling defied the prevailing trend and drew inspiration from the prototype of a watch created for the Italian Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team. This led to the birth of the Breitling Mechanical Chronograph series watch, known as the Chronomat. The name “Chronomat” is a fusion of “CHRONOgraph” and “autoMATic.” In its early days, this term also served as the abbreviated form of “CHRONOgraph for MAThematics,” earning it the moniker of a “miniature calculator on the wrist.” This striking creation emerged as a bold contender, challenging the dominance of slim quartz watches with its robust dimensions and exemplifying Breitling’s audacity and foresight as a leading Swiss watchmaking brand. Significantly, this period coincided with the 100th anniversary of Breitling’s founding. The Chronomat series paid homage to this milestone, marking the glorious return of mechanical watches and solidifying Breitling’s standing in the watchmaking industry.

Italian “Tricolor Arrows” aerobatic team and Breitling mechanical chronograph watch

Contemporary innovation

Breitling’s Mechanical Chronograph series watches, known as the Chronomat, have long adorned the wrists of pilots due to their durability, flight-friendly features, and versatility across various scenarios. As word-of-mouth spread and the series evolved, these mechanical chronograph watches found favor not only among aviators but also among explorers and professionals in diverse fields at sea and on land. From the late 1980s to the early 1990s, the collection underwent further refinement, seamlessly integrating exceptional timing technology with modern aesthetic design.

In fact, the Chronomat’s tachymeter ring captured the attention of Formula 1 teams, while its bezel indicator made it an ideal timepiece for regattas. Even today, as new additions are introduced to the Mechanical Chronograph series, they consistently uphold the classic design elements, spiritual legacy, and remarkable recognizability of the original timepiece.

The rotating bezel features a distinctive bezel indicator, often referred to as a “horse stud,” marked with quarter hours (one quarter, two quarters, three quarters). Notably, the 15-minute and 45-minute bezel indicators can be reversed for use in either uptime or countdown applications. Beyond its timing functionality, this design was initially conceived to minimize the risk of a pilot’s watch colliding with the cockpit and sustaining damage during canopy cover opening. Thus, it serves a dual purpose by also safeguarding the crystal glass.

Breitling mechanical chronograph B01 watch 42 (Chronomat B01 42) countdown / countdown function

The one-piece roller ball stainless steel bracelet, complemented by a butterfly buckle, boasts a seamlessly rounded and smooth touch, showcasing superb craftsmanship. The meticulous combination of polishing and brushing generates a play of light and shadow, evoking a refined and elegant modern ambiance. Designed to fit flawlessly on the wrist, it ensures an exceptional wearing experience. Alternatively, it can be paired with a roller-bead style rubber strap, crafted using cutting-edge injection molding technology.

Breitling mechanical chronograph series watch (Chronomat) integrated roller ball stainless steel bracelet

The onion-shaped screw-in crown is delicate in craftsmanship and easy to operate. From the side of the watch combined with the timing buttons on both sides, it looks like the streamlined shape of an airplane.

There is no doubt that today’s mechanical chronograph watch series demonstrates Breitling’s commitment to “creating a true daily luxury experience for men and women who value purpose, action and style”, conveying the brand’s value identity from appearance to interior. For example, the mechanical chronograph B01 watch 42 (Chronomat B01 42) and the super mechanical chronograph B01 watch 44 (Super Chronomat B01 44) equipped with Breitling’s self-made movement B01 adopt vertical clutch and two-way automatic winding mechanism, with a power reserve of 70 hours, performance is stable and excellent. It is worth mentioning that when the self-made B01 movement was first launched more than ten years ago, it was installed in the mechanical chronograph watch series.

Breitling mechanical chronograph B01 watch 42 (Chronomat B01 42) and super mechanical chronograph B01 watch 44 (Super Chronomat B01 44)
Breitling’s first self-made B01 movement

The mechanical chronograph 36 (Chronomat 36) and mechanical chronograph 32 (Chronomat 32) launched in 2020 are Breitling’s first mechanical chronograph watches designed specifically for women. The self-winding movement in the 36mm model and the “SuperQuartz movement” in the 32mm model have also been certified by the Swiss Official Observatory. The watch has both a sporty style and a modern retro style. It is designed for modern innovative women who boldly reshape new postures and challenge inherent stereotypes, fully demonstrating their talents, confidence and positive attitude towards life.

Born to be strong

From mechanics to pilots, from F1 racing drivers to the “heroes” who dare to go against the wind in life, the mechanical timing series (Chronomat) has always helped people who are “born to be strong” to have the courage to stick to their beliefs and challenge themselves. Many famous people are loyal fans of Breitling, such as entrepreneur and aviation enthusiast Ernest Schneider, and the first explorer Bertrand Piccard to complete a non-stop hot air balloon flight around the world. , NBA two-time MVP, All-Star and championship winner Giannis Antetokounmpo, as well as international superstars Brad Pitt, Charlize Theron, Adam ·Adam Driver, Chinese actress Yao Chen, etc. The mechanical chronograph watch is worn on the wrist, symbolizing the undying original intention of the strong.

Breitling CEO Georges Kern said: “The Breitling Chronomat plays a very important role in the modern history of the brand. This watch clearly shows that Breitling is absolutely true to its roots. Any other watch can better allow us to relive our historical tradition. In October 2022, the Chronomat family will welcome new members to continue the legend…”

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