Which styles of salmon dials merit attention in 2023?

The salmon dial has experienced a significant surge this year, with a continuous stream of new releases that not only showcase innovation but also boast enhanced quality compared to their predecessors. As we approach the year-end, following the tradition of previous years, I’ve curated a selection of noteworthy styles from the plethora of new salmon dials introduced in 2023. These chosen designs, deemed deserving of your attention, are presented here in a brief inventory introduction. Join me in exploring them together.

IWC Portuguese series IW358313

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Product model: IW358313
Watch diameter: 40.4 mm
Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Movement type: automatic machine
Movement model: 82200
Case material: stainless steel
Waterproof depth: 30 meters

Watch review:

At the beginning of the year, IWC introduced a new salmon dial option for the Portuguese 40 watch. Reports indicate that the watch quickly gained popularity, with overseas stocks selling out. Since its launch a few years ago, the Portuguese 40 watch, characterized by its compact and wearable size, has garnered widespread acclaim among watch enthusiasts. This trend underscores the gradual resurgence of interest in smaller watch diameters, with preferences shifting from larger to more modest sizes.

Crafted with a stainless steel case measuring 40.4 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness, the watch features a brushed side and a polished front, creating a visually appealing light and dark contrast. The salmon dial, with its exquisite orange-pink tone and small three-hand design, complements the overall elegance of the Portuguese 40, contributing to the watch’s aesthetic appeal.

Powering the watch is a self-produced 82200 movement—a notable aspect of the Portuguese 40 that has garnered praise from watch enthusiasts. The 82 series movement is equipped with a Pellaton automatic winding system, often referred to as the woodpecker winding. This system not only ensures excellent winding efficiency but also utilizes IWC’s wear-resistant zirconium oxide ceramic material in the movement’s winding parts, highlighting IWC’s expertise in material innovation. A fully wound watch can provide a generous power reserve of 60 hours. The timepiece is paired with a black alligator leather strap, completing its refined and sophisticated look.

Tudor Royal Series M28600-0009

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Product model:M28600-0009
Watch diameter: 41mm
Movement type: automatic machine
Movement model: T603
Case material: 316L steel
Waterproof depth: 100 meters

Watch comments:

At the beginning of the year, Tudor unveiled two new dial color options for the Royal series watches: chocolate brown and salmon pink. Notably, the chocolate brown dials are featured on gold models, while the salmon pink dials are reserved for stainless steel versions. The Royal series was initially designed to seamlessly transition between formal and sporty occasions. With the introduction of the new salmon dial and its distinctive sunray pattern, the play of light and shadow on the dial is further enhanced, resulting in a more fashionable aesthetic. The physical effect gives off a subtle resemblance to the popular pink gold dials seen in Rolex watches.

The Royal Salmon pink dial comes in two variations: one with diamond-engraved time markers and another with Roman numerals. When the Royal series was first launched, I recommended the Roman numeral model with a day and calendar complication for its practicality in a modern men’s watch. This sentiment holds true for the 41mm gold model featuring the salmon dial. The day calendar function is not only practical but also accentuated by the arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock, enhancing the watch’s recognition and distinctiveness. The Roman numeral markers add an eye-catching element, contributing to the overall unique beauty of the watch.

In terms of movement, the 41mm model is equipped with the T603 movement, an improvement from Tudor’s in-house movement. Although not manufactured by Tudor, its performance, including accuracy and stability, has been attested by watch enthusiasts. While the 38-hour power reserve may be considered relatively modest in today’s context, the Royal offers an excellent wearing experience. Its one-piece metal strap not only exudes quality but is also remarkably comfortable, making the Royal a compelling choice as your daily commuter watch.

Longines Watchmaking Heritage Series L2.843.4.93.2

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Product model: L2.843.4.93.2
Watch diameter: 38.50mm
Case thickness: 10.20 mm
Movement type: automatic machine
Movement model: L893
Case material: stainless steel
Waterproof depth: 30 meters

Watch comments:

Concluding our exploration, let’s highlight a new entry-level formal wear model featuring a salmon dial. In July, Longines introduced a salmon plate option within the Master Series small seconds watches. Drawing inspiration from the design of last year’s 40mm commemorative watch, celebrating the brand’s 190th anniversary, Longines infused traditional style into this timepiece. Notably, the size has been refined to a more elegant 38.5mm, with a slim profile of 10.2mm. The fully polished stainless steel case exudes sophistication, but the true standout element lies in the meticulously designed dial.

The salmon hue chosen by Longines for the dial imparts a sense of timeless elegance. Additionally, the vertical brushed finish on the dial, coupled with the brushed small three-hand design and delicate Breguet numeral hour markers, complemented by blue steel willow hands, elevate the watch’s classic retro style, showcasing its unique beauty. Powering the watch is the L893.5 automatic movement, an improvement from the ETA A31.501, featuring a silicon hairspring for anti-magnetic functionality. When fully wound, the movement provides an impressive power reserve of up to 72 hours, making it suitable for weekend wear. The timepiece is elegantly paired with a dark gray alligator leather strap, secured by a stainless steel folding buckle.

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